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Concern

Dark spots & melasma

Dark spots come from sun, old breakouts, or hormones, and melasma is a hormone-and-sun related patchy discoloration. A dermatologist can confirm what you have and offer stronger options like prescription hydroquinone or tretinoin.

Combine with other concerns

Actives that work

Azelaic acid

strong evidence Typical: 10-20%

Blocks the pigment enzyme in overactive cells while calming inflammation. In 329 women it performed about as well as 4% hydroquinone for melasma.

Niacinamide

moderate evidence Typical: 4-5%

Stops pigment from moving into surface skin cells. A split-face trial found 4% niacinamide improved melasma similarly to 4% hydroquinone with fewer side effects.

Tranexamic acid

emerging evidence Typical: 3-5%

Interrupts signaling between skin cells that triggers pigment. Reviews say results are promising but efficacy isn't firmly established, especially topically.

Tinted sunscreen with iron oxide

moderate evidence Typical: SPF 50 with iron oxides

Visible light can darken pigment in medium-to-deep tones. Iron-oxide sunscreen plus hydroquinone beat UV-only sunscreen in a trial of 68 people.

What to buy

Cheapest first. Start with the budget pick.

Routine

Morning

  1. Gentle cleanser
  2. Vitamin C or niacinamide
  3. Tinted mineral SPF 50, reapplied

Evening

  1. Cleanser
  2. Azelaic acid or tranexamic acid
  3. Moisturizer

Expect 8-12 weeks at least; stopping sunscreen restarts the pigment.

Cautions. Hydroquinone can cause ochronosis if overused; use only as directed by a clinician. Pregnancy: avoid hydroquinone and retinoids without medical advice, and patch test first.

This is general information, not medical advice. See a dermatologist for persistent or severe concerns.