Library
Every study we cite, in one place. Each citation chip on the site links to its row here.
pmid-41601401
AlJabr A, AlAnazi AMI, AlEtebi RAA. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2026.
review
Narrative review: oral, topical and intradermal tranexamic acid significantly reduce pigmentation indices in melasma and PIH; topical/intradermal comparable or superior to hydroquinone with fewer irritant reactions.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/jocd.70692
pmid-42592775
Lim AXH, Raza S, Al-Niaimi F et al.. Clin Exp Dermatol, 2026.
systematic-review
PRISMA review of 111 articles: benzoyl peroxide gave about 75% median lesion reduction vs placebo, 2.5% and 5% comparable; adapalene-BPO beats monotherapy but is more irritating.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1093/ced/llag357
pmid-42876425
Jiang X, Luo H, He X et al.. Skin Res Technol, 2026.
RCT
Moisturizer with Centella asiatica, ceramide NP and panthenol in rosacea patients on oral minocycline (n=75) gave faster and greater erythema and hydration improvement.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/srt.70396
pmid-39412152
Woolhiser E, Sobotka M, Burnette C et al.. Dermatol Surg, 2025.
review
30-year review of 22 studies: topical caffeine, vitamins, acids and growth factors can help periorbital dark circles.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1097/DSS.0000000000004429
pmid-39492723
Akahane T et al.. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2025.
RCT
Pseudo-ceramide absorbed into the stratum corneum.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/jocd.16655
pmid-41236273
Huang HY, Lee LT. Dermatol Pract Concept, 2025.
meta-analysis
Meta-analysis of 8 RCTs (1,361 patients): tretinoin improved fine wrinkles (MD 0.412) and coarse wrinkles (MD 0.245), both P<0.001.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.5826/dpc.1504a5172
pmid-41315336
Ghasemiyeh P, Haghighi NF, Dastgheib L, Ranjbar S et al.. Sci Rep, 2025.
RCT
99 melasma patients, randomized double-blind: niosomal TXA 2%/niacinamide 2% and conventional TXA 5%/niacinamide 4% creams were as effective as hydroquinone 4% over 3 months, with fewer adverse reactions and less relapse.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1038/s41598-025-26693-8
pmid-38300170
Reynolds RV, Yeung H, Cheng CE et al.. J Am Acad Dermatol, 2024.
systematic-review
AAD guideline: strong recommendations for benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids in acne; conditional recommendations for salicylic acid and azelaic acid.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1016/j.jaad.2023.12.017
pmid-38406974
Grimes PE, Nelson DB. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2024.
cohort
Evaluated the cream in Fitzpatrick IV-V skin. Outcome numbers not reported here.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/jocd.16246
pmid-39464747
Feng X, Shang J, Gu Z et al.. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2024.
review
Review of azelaic acid mechanisms and uses; effective in acne, rosacea and melasma.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.2147/CCID.S485237
pmid-37128827
Correia G, Magina S. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2023.
systematic-review
Systematic review of 7 studies (139 volunteers): topical vitamin C smoothed skin and lightened melasma/photoaging, with long-term use needed.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/jocd.15748
pmid-37276158
Draelos ZD, Baalbaki N, Colon G et al.. J Drugs Dermatol, 2023.
RCT
Ceramide-containing skin care alongside adapalene 0.3%/BPO 2.5% kept water loss and dryness scores lower than the control.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.36849/JDD.7142
pmid-37801542
Nguyen H et al.. J Drugs Dermatol, 2023.
RCT
OTC moisturizers significantly improved hydration.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.36849/JDD.8641
pmid-35005862
Robinson D, Friedmann D, Gordon J, Wortzman M, Nelson D. J Drugs Dermatol, 2022.
cohort
Evaluated a double-conjugated retinoid/AHA cream in blemish-prone skin. Outcome numbers not reported here.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.36849/JDD.2022.6415
pmid-32335182
Lyons AB et al.. J Am Acad Dermatol, 2021.
review
Tinted sunscreens add visible-light protection.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1016/j.jaad.2020.04.079
pmid-34356362
Boo YC. Antioxidants (Basel), 2021.
review
Review of arbutin and its derivatives as skin depigmenting agents, covering melanin-synthesis inhibition, antioxidant action, efficacy and safety.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.3390/antiox10071129
pmid-34980969
Spierings NMK. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol, 2021.
review
Systematic review of OTC vitamin A cosmetics for facial aging (conclusion from the abstract).
pmid-32272513
Draelos ZD et al.. J Drugs Dermatol, 2020.
RCT
Ceramide-containing product increased stratum corneum lipid levels.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.36849/JDD.2020.4796
pmid-33103342
Lintner K, Gerstein F, Solish N. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2020.
cohort
Open-label study: serum with 15% L-ascorbic acid, tocopheryl acetate and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide-38 for 56 days reduced skin roughness 8-9%, redness 9% and increased homogeneity 8% (open label, no control).
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/jocd.13770
pmid-29947134
Dhaliwal S, Rybak I, Ellis SR et al.. Br J Dermatol, 2019.
RCT
Bakuchiol 0.5% twice daily and retinol 0.5% daily both reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation over 12 weeks (n=44) with no significant difference; retinol caused more scaling and stinging.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/bjd.16918
pmid-30444533
Schneider SL, Lim HW. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 2019.
review
ZnO and TiO2 offer broad-spectrum protection with good safety.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/phpp.12439
pmid-28133910
Taraz M, Niknam S, Ehsani AH. Dermatol Ther, 2017.
review
Review of tranexamic acid for melasma concluded efficacy is not yet adequately established and more studies are needed.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/dth.12465
pmid-28762645
McDaniel DH, Mazur C, Wortzman MS, Nelson DB. J Cosmet Dermatol, 2017.
RCT
Split-face 12-week study in 48 women; AHA-conjugated retinoid noninferior to tretinoin in most categories with less irritation and better hydration (summary-level details).
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/jocd.12381
pmid-26244354
Draelos ZD, Elewski BE, Harper JC et al.. Cutis, 2015.
RCT
Phase 3 trial of azelaic acid 15% foam in papulopustular rosacea: significantly better investigator success and lesion reduction than vehicle.
pmid-26347269
Arif T. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2015.
review
Reviews salicylic acid peels for acne, photoaging and pigmentation.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.2147/CCID.S84765
pmid-24313385
Castanedo-Cazares JP et al.. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 2014.
RCT
Iron-oxide tinted sunscreen outperformed non-tinted sunscreen for melasma.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/phpp.12086
pmid-24810127
Fabi S, Sundaram H. Facial Plast Surg, 2014.
review
Review of topical and injectable growth factors for skin rejuvenation.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1055/s-0034-1372423
pmid-23075568
Herman A, Herman AP. Skin Pharmacol Physiol, 2013.
review
Review of caffeine's mechanisms and cosmetic use: antioxidant, UV-protective, improves microcirculation, anti-cellulite via lipolysis; typical formulations contain 3% caffeine.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1159/000343174
pmid-23652896
Wu Y, Zheng X, Xu XG, Li YH et al.. J Drugs Dermatol, 2013.
RCT
Controlled trial in 12 healthy subjects: topical vitamin C + E + ferulic acid complex protected against solar-simulated UV-induced acute photodamage.
pmid-23732711
Hughes MC et al.. Ann Intern Med, 2013.
RCT
Daily sunscreen use reduced skin-aging progression versus discretionary use.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.7326/0003-4819-158-11-201306040-00002
pmid-24399880
Sharad J. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2013.
review
Reviews glycolic acid peels for acne, photoaging, melasma and texture.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.2147/CCID.S34029
pmid-21822427
Navarrete-Solís J, Castanedo-Cázares JP, Torres-Álvarez B et al.. Dermatol Res Pract, 2011.
RCT
Split-face melasma trial (27 patients, 8 weeks): 4% niacinamide and 4% hydroquinone both improved melasma with no significant colorimetric difference; fewer side effects with niacinamide (18% vs 29%).
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1155/2011/379173
pmid-22052267
Pavicic T, Gauglitz GG, Lersch P, Schwach-Abdellaoui K et al.. J Drugs Dermatol, 2011.
RCT
76 women, 60-day randomized trial of 0.1% hyaluronan creams of different molecular weights around the eyes: all improved hydration and elasticity vs vehicle; 50 and 130 kDa reduced wrinkle roughness significantly.
pmid-20410914
Mahmoud BH, Ruvolo E, Hexsel CL et al.. J Invest Dermatol, 2010.
RCT
Visible light produced darker, longer-lasting pigmentation than UVA1 in skin types IV-VI.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1038/jid.2010.95
pmid-20977441
Seité S, Fourtanier A, Moyal D et al.. Br J Dermatol, 2010.
review
Review showing suberythemal (sub-sunburn) UV exposure damages skin and that sunscreen can attenuate this.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2010.10018.x
pmid-21437068
Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2010.
review
Reviews AHA/BHA mechanisms for exfoliation and photoaging.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.2147/CCID.S9042
pmid-18603326
Murray JC, Burch JA, Streilein RD, Iannacchione MA et al.. J Am Acad Dermatol, 2008.
RCT
15% L-ascorbic acid + 1% alpha-tocopherol + 0.5% ferulic acid applied for 4 days gave significant photoprotection against solar-simulated UV (erythema, sunburn cells, thymine dimers, p53, cytokines); effect is complementary to sunscreen. Small human study.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1016/j.jaad.2008.05.004
pmid-19112801
Mehta RC, Smith SR, Grove GL et al.. J Drugs Dermatol, 2008.
RCT
A topical product containing over 110 growth factors (60 subjects, 6 months) reduced facial photodamage, with fine lines improving more by 3 months.
pmid-17515510
Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE, Cho S, Hanft VN, Hamilton TA, King AL, Neal JD, Varani J, Fisher GJ, Voorhees JJ, Kang S. Arch Dermatol, 2007.
RCT
0.4% retinol in elderly subjects over 24 weeks improved fine wrinkles versus vehicle (summary-level details).
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1001/archderm.143.5.606
pmid-16443054
Thiboutot D, Pariser DM, Egan N et al.. J Am Acad Dermatol, 2006.
RCT
In 653 patients over 12 weeks, adapalene gel 0.3% outperformed 0.1% and vehicle for acne and was well tolerated.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1016/j.jaad.2004.10.879
pmid-16766489
Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. J Cosmet Laser Ther, 2006.
RCT
2% niacinamide moisturizer significantly lowered sebum excretion rate at 2 and 4 weeks vs placebo (100 Japanese subjects); a 30-person Caucasian split-face study ran 6 weeks.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1080/14764170600717704
pmid-18046911
Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V et al.. Clin Interv Aging, 2006.
review
Overview of retinoid clinical efficacy and safety for skin aging.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327
pmid-16029679
Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Dermatol Surg, 2005.
RCT
5% niacinamide, 50 women, 12 weeks, split-face; improved fine lines, spots, redness and sallowness (summary-level details).
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732
pmid-16185284
Lin FH, Lin JY, Gupta RD et al.. J Invest Dermatol, 2005.
in-vitro
Adding ferulic acid to 15% L-ascorbic acid + 1% tocopherol stabilized the solution and roughly doubled photoprotection (about 4-fold to about 8-fold).
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x
pmid-16209160
Draelos ZD, Ertel K, Berge C. Cutis, 2005.
RCT
Randomized, investigator-blind study (n=50, 4 weeks) of a niacinamide-containing moisturizer in people with rosacea, assessing barrier function and hydration; the abstract does not state numeric results.
pmid-18492182
Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, Dawes NC et al.. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2005.
RCT
93 women aged 35-55, 12-week double-blind split-face study: moisturizer with 3 ppm pal-KTTKS significantly reduced wrinkles/fine lines vs control moisturizer.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2005.00261.x
pmid-14728695
Ananthapadmanabhan KP et al.. Dermatol Ther, 2004.
review
Mild surfactant systems preserve the barrier.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04s1002.x
pmid-18492135
Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J et al.. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2004.
RCT
50 women, 12-week double-blind split-face randomized trial: topical niacinamide reduced yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness and hyperpigmented spots.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00228.x
pmid-12823436
Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P, Lapière C et al.. Exp Dermatol, 2003.
RCT
Double-blind randomized 6-month trial of 5% vitamin C cream on photoaged skin: significant clinical improvement, more skin microrelief, fewer deep furrows, elastic-tissue repair on biopsy.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1034/j.1600-0625.2003.00008.x
pmid-14616378
Beitner H. Br J Dermatol, 2003.
RCT
5% alpha-lipoic acid cream trial for photoaged facial skin; outcome numbers not reported here.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1046/j.1365-2133.2003.05597.x
pmid-11896774
Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Dermatol Surg, 2002.
RCT
Double-blind half-face trial (n=10, 12 weeks) of 10% ascorbic acid + 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate improved photoaging scores on cheeks (P=0.006) and perioral area (P=0.01).
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.01129.x
pmid-12100180
Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J et al.. Br J Dermatol, 2002.
RCT
Niacinamide inhibited melanosome transfer 35-68% in coculture, and 5% niacinamide reduced hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness within 4 weeks.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x
pmid-12113650
Ebner F, Heller A, Rippke F et al.. Am J Clin Dermatol, 2002.
review
Topical dexpanthenol improves stratum corneum hydration, reduces water loss and has anti-inflammatory effects.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.2165/00128071-200203060-00005
pmid-18498523
Blanes-Mira C, Clemente J, Jodas G, Gil A et al.. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2002.
in-vitro
Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8) 10% in an O/W emulsion reduced wrinkle depth by up to 30% in 30 days in healthy volunteers and inhibited neurotransmitter release in vitro via SNARE complex interference.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1046/j.1467-2494.2002.00153.x
pmid-11207686
Pinnell SR, Yang H, Omar M et al.. Dermatol Surg, 2001.
in-vitro
Topical L-ascorbic acid absorbs into skin only at pH below 3.5, with a concentration of 20% giving the highest tissue levels.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x
pmid-9990421
Cunliffe WJ, Poncet M, Loesche C, Verschoore M. Br J Dermatol, 1998.
meta-analysis
Pooled analysis of 5 trials (about 900 patients): adapalene comparable efficacy with better tolerability.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1046/j.1365-2133.1998.1390s2048.x
pmid-8642081
Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF et al.. J Am Acad Dermatol, 1996.
RCT
25% glycolic, lactic or citric acid lotion for about 6 months produced roughly 25% greater skin thickness and reversed markers of photoaging.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1016/s0190-9622(96)80110-1
pmid-1816137
Baliña LM, Graupe K. Int J Dermatol, 1991.
RCT
In 329 women over 24 weeks (double-blind), 20% azelaic acid gave a good or excellent melasma response in 65%, not significantly different from 4% hydroquinone.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1111/j.1365-4362.1991.tb04362.x
pmid-2808786
Rogers RS 3rd, Callen J, Wehr R, Krochmal L. J Am Acad Dermatol, 1989.
RCT
Double-blind comparison for xerosis; outcome numbers not reported here.
Read the study (opens in new tab) / DOI 10.1016/s0190-9622(89)70242-5
pmid-3336176
Weiss JS, Ellis CN, Headington JT et al.. JAMA, 1988.
RCT
In a 16-week double-blind trial (30 patients), 14 of 15 faces treated with tretinoin improved vs none on vehicle.